PARTS:
GBA System: $55.50
Membranes: $2.00
Display: $48.00
USB-C Mod: $29.90
______________________
Parts: $94.70
TOTAL: $150.20
IPS GBA
I highly recommend modding the GBA as it is easy to open and it has a great form factor. It can play all the original GB and GBC games as well.
The display kit used does not require soldering unless you want to utilize L+R and select to control brightness levels and the on-screen display (OSD).
It includes a touch sensor under the display that can also control the brightness and OSD.
​
If you do want the L&R buttons to work for brightness control there are 3 wires to solder from the display ribbon cable to 3 test pads on the motherboard.
​
The USB-C charging is also solderless. It requires you to take the left battery contact with some tweezers or a screwdriver, but otherwise it drops right into the shell used in this project, connecting directly to the battery contacts that are soldered to the motherboard.
​
This USB-C Mod only supports USB-A to USB-C charging. It will not work with a USB-C to USB-C cable. You could skip this and save an extra buck if you want to use AA batteries. I recommend this Eneloop Ni-MH Battery kit which is more money but you can use batteries for anything :)
​
The white buttons are a tad bit more expensive. From my use of this device over the last year, the buttons do tend to show a bit more dirt than if I had selected another color.
​
I paid 55.50 for the fully functional GBA used in this project. If you already have one, you're off to a good start! If not, Facebook Market Place, eBay and Mercari are good places to look. I would expect to pay in the range of $45-65USD shipped.
​
Overall I am quite happy with this device and would highly recommend this configuration to anyone looking for a modded GBA.
PARTS:
GBA System: $$62.91
Membranes: $2.00
Display: $39.90
Lens: $4.50
USB-C Mod: $29.90
______________________
Parts: $91.10
TOTAL: $154.01
TFT GBA
This mod uses the same display as the bottom of the NDSi. It is not laminated meaning you need to purchase a separate lens, but provides a more authentic and accurate look for the time period that GBA games were released.
​
Above I said GBA is a simple device to mod, however this one was not without issues. It took breaking 2 displays and 2 years to getting around to redoing this device.
​
This one of the first mods I attempted and I broke the first TFT because I forgot to cut out some of the plastic which caused the display to crack, so be sure to follow the directions.
​
Friendly Reminder :) Making mistakes is all part of the process!
​
The metal file and nail file helped to flatten the surface, and any scuff marks you make on the inside of the shell wont' be visible once you put the lens on.
​
The display kit used does not require soldering unless you want to utilize L+R and select to control brightness levels and the on-screen display (OSD).
This kit includes a touch sensor that sits at the top of the device next to the link cable port that controls the brightness and OSD.
​
If you do not tape the touch sensor on this kit properly you will not have a good time. I recommend soldering and ignoring the touch sensor. I found a guide on how to disable it entirely.
​
After I put the device back together, I didn't realize the touch sensor was pinched between the top seam of the front and back shell. This caused an issue where the screen brightness and OSD would change randomly and cause the brightness to fluctuate rapidly.
​
If the sensor is pinched or not seated /taped properly, you'll see this same behavior where the screen brightness changes without your interaction, regardless of soldering any wires.
​
​I mentioned this project started 2 years ago in 2022, and it took me until 2024 to realize this shell glows in the dark!
​
The below is the same as with the IPS GBA:
If you do want the L&R buttons to work for brightness control there are 3 wires to solder from the display ribbon cable to 3 test pads on the motherboard.
​
The USB-C charging is solderless. It requires you to take the left battery contact with some tweezers or a screwdriver, but otherwise it drops right into the shell used in this project, connecting directly to the battery contacts that are already soldered to the motherboard.
​
This USB-C Mod only supports USB-A to USB-C charging. It will not work with a USB-C to USB-C cable. You could skip this and save an extra buck if you want to use AA batteries. I recommend this Eneloop Ni-MH Battery kit which is more money but you can use batteries for anything :)
​
The white buttons are a tad bit more expensive. From my use of this device over the last year, the buttons do tend to show a bit more dirt than if I had selected another color. ​
